TRAIL GUIDE

If you decide to hike a long trail, the first thing you do isn't actually "hiking." You need to get a permit, a visa, insurance, financial planning, and possibly quit your job. It's normal for the preparation to take more than six months.

I will explain based on my experience with the PCT.

permit

A Long Distance Permit issued by the PCTA (Pacific Crest Trail Association) is required. Applications for the following year begin in the fall each year, and there is a limit to the number of people who can depart each day. For NOBO, the March-April start slots are very popular, so early application is important. Applications are made online through the PCTA's official website.

Many popular long-distance trails, not just the PCT, have permit systems. The Appalachian Trail (AT) in the US doesn't require a permit, but the John Muir Trail (JMT) uses a lottery system with high competition. Te Araroa in New Zealand doesn't require one either. Since the systems vary greatly from trail to trail, that's the first thing you should check.

Visa and Entry

In the case of the United States, Japanese citizens can stay for 90 days with ESTA. However, since the PCT thru-hike usually takes 5-6 months, obtaining a B-2 visa (tourist visa) is recommended. At the embassy interview, simply stating that you are "walking the PCT" should be sufficient. Showing your permit at immigration will also be understood.

insurance

Medical expenses abroad are very high. A fracture can result in a bill of several million yen. Overseas travel insurance or insurance provided by your credit card is essential. Make sure that mountain accidents and rescue/transportation are covered. There are also mountain insurance policies that offer international coverage.

If you're hiking long trails overseas, insurance is essential. Medical costs vary greatly from country to country (the US is particularly expensive). Coverage for mountain accidents and helicopter airlifts differs between insurance plans, so it's best to choose one that covers situations like "being unable to move on the trail."

cost

The total cost of a PCT thru-hike, including travel expenses, is approximately 1.2 to 2 million yen. The breakdown is roughly as follows:

• Travel expenses (round-trip airfare): 150,000 to 250,000 yen
• Equipment (newly purchased): 150,000 to 300,000 yen
• Expenses for living on the trail (food, accommodation, laundry, etc.): 500,000 to 800,000 yen
• Insurance: 20,000 to 150,000 yen
• Visa, Permit, and Others: 50,000 to 100,000 yen

It really depends on how often you stay in town and your eating habits. If you mainly cook your own meals, you can keep costs down, but sometimes you just want to stay in a motel, take a shower, and eat pizza. I consider that extra budget to be for my mental well-being.

The cost varies greatly depending on the trail and country. American trails (PCT, AT, CDT) have high town accommodation costs. Te Araroa in New Zealand has relatively cheap hut (mountain lodge) fees, but food is expensive. Camino de Santiago in Spain has very cheap albergues (pilgrim hostels). I think "how much you spend in town" is the biggest factor that can vary on any trail. But walking a long trail in a state of mind completely free from work is incredibly fun.

When choosing equipment for the PCT, the top priority is whether it will last for five months without breaking. The balance between lightness and durability is critical. In 2022, I covered 4,265km from the Mexican border to the Canadian border, taking approximately five months. I started with a base weight of 4,836g.

4,265km / 152 days / 4,836g

Backpack, cozy, pack liner, shoulder bag — most of the gear I carried was something I had prototyped myself. It was also a journey to see if I could walk 4,200 km with this equipment. I started at Campo (the Mexican border) and completed my gear list as I walked.

The concept of base weight is the same for any trail. The optimal balance between lightness and durability varies depending on the distance and duration. For a one-week trail, it's fine to choose equipment that won't break, even if it's a little heavy. For a five-month trail, you need to prioritize lightness, otherwise your body won't last. I personally use the PCT as my benchmark, but I think it's important to adjust your gear list according to the distance.

Backpack

This is a frameless 45L pack (743g) that I prototyped myself for the PCT. It was the original model that was later commercialized as the CREST 40. There are sections of the PCT where you have to carry a bear canister (a food container for bear protection). The moment I put an 8L cylinder in the pack in the Sierra section, I keenly felt the importance of capacity design. After 4,200km, the bottom of the pack was worn thin and one stitch on the shoulder strap came undone. But the main fabric did not tear.

shelter

REI Flash Air 1 Tent (680g). A single-wall tent designed for trekking pole setup. On the PCT, the ground changes from hard desert sand to rocky Sierra terrain and Oregon forests. I was worried about whether a non-freestanding tent would be sufficient, but it was no problem on the PCT. Where the pegs wouldn't go in, I used rocks to secure it.

The best shelter choice depends on the trail's climate and terrain. For trails with long, dry sections like the PCT or CDT, a lightweight, non-freestanding shelter is advantageous. In environments with daily rain, like the AT, the reliability of a double-wall shelter becomes desirable. In windy areas like Te Araroa, a low-profile design is crucial. I think "where you'll use it" comes first, and "how many grams it weighs" comes later.

Sleeping

The temperature range on the PCT is extremely volatile. Desert nights can drop to 5°C, while in the Sierra Nevada it can reach -5°C. Some nights in the desert were too hot, but in the Sierra, I had to huddle up to barely survive. Having to cover this temperature range with just one sleeping bag is what makes thru-hiking so challenging.

Choosing a sleeping bag temperature rating on any trail boils down to two options: "match it to the coldest night" or "match it to the average and wear layers on colder days." I chose the latter. For thru-hikes where you can't carry two sleeping bags, I think it's more practical to compensate for any temperature gaps through layering.

Layering — The climate of the PCT

The climate on the PCT is extreme. In the desert sections, daytime temperatures exceed 40°C, while nighttime temperatures drop to 5°C. In the Sierra Nevada, daytime temperatures can reach 20°C, but nighttime temperatures can drop to -5°C. Once you enter Washington State, it rains continuously, and temperatures drop to 12°C. You have to hike the entire route in the same set of clothing. I managed to get through the entire route with a four-layer system: merino hoodie + synthetic insulation + down + shell. My experience of wearing merino for five months straight on the PCT later led to the creation of MIYAGEN's merino apparel.

The 4-layer concept (base + insulation + shell) is fundamental for long-distance hiking, not just the PCT. When you reduce your load, you need the ability to adjust your clothing layers.

Electronic devices on the PCT are concentrated in three categories: navigation, communication, and recording. The issue isn't so much what you bring, but what you charge. In the Sierra, where refueling intervals are 5-6 days, the capacity of your mobile battery directly translates to peace of mind.

smartphone

The iPhone 13 Pro handles everything: navigation, communication, and a secondary camera. The FarOut app is essential, as it shows the location of water sources, campsites, and the distance to the next resupply point. You can download offline maps and use it even when you're out of range. It's recommended to buy a SIM card locally in the US, but recently, buying an eSIM in advance in Japan is also an option.

camera

Nikon Z7II + Z 40mm f/2 (approx. 755g / 897g with strap and spare battery). Bringing a full-frame mirrorless camera to the PCT is uncommon, but for me, the quality of the "records" was directly linked to the meaning of the trip. It supports USB-C charging, so it can be charged directly from a mobile battery. The weight is a significant drawback, but considering the quality of the photos I can look back on after returning home, I have no regrets.

Charging plan

I used a two-battery setup: an ANKER 10000mAh and a RAVPOWER 20000mAh. I switched between them depending on the length of the section. For desert sections (3-4 days between resupply intervals), 10000mAh was sufficient. For Sierra sections (5-6 days), 20000mAh was necessary. When I arrived in town, the first thing I did was charge all my devices. That was my routine.

The charging plan is the same for all trails: calculate backward from "number of days between towns × daily battery consumption". Besides the PCT, many other trails, such as Te Araroa and AT, are covered by FarOut. Battery capacity becomes more important on trails with longer intervals between resupply points, so you need to recalculate for each trail.

GPS and app

• FarOut (formerly Guthook): A must-have for PCT hikers. Features comprehensive information on water sources, campsites, and reviews.
• Gaia GPS: Backup map. Insurance in case FarOut crashes.
• Google Maps: Navigation in town
• WhatsApp: A standard way to communicate with hikers in the United States.

FarOut covers major long-distance trails worldwide, including the PCT, AT, CDT, Te Araroa, Camino, and GR trails. Once you learn how to use the app, you can use it on other trails as well. The real-time "water source comments" are a lifesaver even on trails other than the PCT.

Daily life on the PCT is a cycle of "walk, eat, and sleep." However, American trails have a completely different system than those in Japan. The unit of measurement is miles, and water sources can be more than 20 miles apart. There are many things you can learn that will make your first few days much easier.

What I learned in the first 100 miles

The first one or two weeks of the PCT are a period where everything is "different from what you imagined." How you use your equipment, how much water you have, your walking pace—you'll be adjusting everything as you go. Here's what I learned in my first 100 miles (about 160 km).

The problem of walking too much. Everyone goes through this. Some hikers get excited and walk 30km on the first day, only to be unable to move the next day. For the first two weeks, it might be a good idea to limit yourself to 20km/day or less. If you push yourself too hard before your body is ready, you'll get injured sooner.

Miscalculating water supply. In the desert section, the distance between water sources can be 20-30km. Calculating "how many liters are needed until the next water source" is something you'll almost certainly get wrong at first. My policy was "if in doubt, carry extra," to give myself some leeway. FarOut's water source comments are a lifesaver. I always carried 6L in the desert: 1-2L for sleeping, 2L during the day, and 2L as a reserve. If water is plentiful, carrying just 1L is enough.

The reality of setting up a tent. Practicing at home is one thing, but setting it up on an actual trail is another. Wind, slopes, rocky ground. You'll develop your own setup pattern in the first few days. The key is to decide on your campsite before it gets dark.

Other hikers are your textbook. The most helpful thing during the first 100 miles was the other hikers who started at the same time. Everyone had the same problems, and information exchange happened naturally. "Don't try to solve everything alone" is key to long-distance hiking.

Walking too much in the first week or two, misjudging water levels, struggling to set up tents—this isn't unique to the PCT. Whether it's the AT or Te Araroa, everyone hits the same wall in the first few days. "Start slowly, then increase your speed" is a principle that applies to everything. Don't push yourself too hard; just enjoy yourself at your own pace.

Get used to American units of measurement

Distance is measured in miles (1 mile ≈ 1.6 km), temperature in Fahrenheit (°F), and weight in ounces (oz). All conversations between PCT hikers are based on miles. "I walked 25 miles today." "It's 8 miles to the next water source." It's difficult to convert at first, but after a week you'll start thinking in miles.

Water sources and water transport

In the desert section (Campo to Kennedy Meadows), water sources can be more than 20 miles apart. There were times when I had to carry 5 liters of water. I walked while checking the latest water source status in the FarOut app comments. After the Sierra, snowmelt water is abundant, and water is hardly a concern. I used a Katadyne filter for water purification.

The calculation of how much water to carry (distance to the next water source ÷ speed × consumption per hour) is used on any trail with dry sections, such as the desert sections of the PCT, the New Mexico section of the CDT, and the North Island section of Te Araroa. I think "when in doubt, carry extra" is a universally accepted rule.

Bounce Box

"Bounce Box" is a system that uses USPS (Japan Post) General Delivery to send packages to a nearby town. You can change your gear according to the season (e.g., adding chain spikes from the desert to the Sierra) or send back tools you no longer need. If used strategically, it makes optimizing your equipment much easier.

Shopping and resupply

Resupply points (towns where you can resupply) appear every 3 to 6 days. However, even though they're called "towns," they may only be small shops with gas stations. Don't expect a wide selection of goods. Staple foods include ramen, couscous, and oatmeal. Snacks include granola bars, nuts, and dried fruit. With limited options, food planning becomes simpler.

The concept of resupply is calculated as "number of days between towns × daily food weight." On the PCT, this interval was 3 to 6 days, but it varies greatly depending on the trail. Te Araroa has sections where you won't reach a town for more than 10 days. The longer the resupply interval on a trail, the more important it becomes to calculate the calorie density (kcal/g) of your food.

Weather and animals

The desert is experiencing scorching temperatures exceeding 40°C, followed by chilly nights. The Sierra Nevada has lingering snow and river crossings. Washington State is experiencing continuous rain. I checked the weather forecast using FarOut comments and Wi-Fi connections in town. Rattlesnakes (desert) and black bears (Sierra Nevada to the north) are animals to watch out for. The use of bear canisters is mandatory in some sections.

On my PCT, I would lose weight if I didn't consume more than 3,000 kcal a day. This abnormal appetite, known as "hiker's hunger," starts 2-3 weeks into the hike. Food planning is one of the core aspects of ultralight hiking.

Food situation by section

In the desert, where water is scarce, you need to carry a lot of water, so you want to keep your food as light as possible. In the Sierra, the altitude and physical exertion increase, so you need more calories. Even though it was the same "one day's worth of food," the contents and quantity varied completely depending on the section.

• Desert (Campo to Kennedy Meadows): 3-4 days of replenishment / 450-500g/day / 4-6L water / 3,000-3,500kcal
• Sierra (Kennedy Meadows to Sonora Pass): Supplementation for 5-6 days / 550-650g/day / 3-4L water / 3,500kcal
• Northern California: Supplementation for 3-4 days / 500-550g/day / 4-6L water / 3,000kcal
• Oregon to Washington: 3-5 days of replenishment / 500-600g/day / 3-4L water / 3,000kcal

Things I ate every day

For five months, I ate pretty much the same things every day. In the morning, instant coffee + granola bar (no cooking required, ready to go in 5 minutes). My trail food consisted of nuts, dried fruit, and chips (60-70% of my total calories came from this). In the evening, ramen or couscous + tuna pack + olive oil (a food with the highest calorie density at 9kcal/g).

The pattern of "not using fire in the morning, getting 60-70% of calories from trail snacks, and only cooking at night" is practiced by many hikers, not just on the PCT. The idea of ​​choosing calorie-dense foods such as olive oil (9kcal/g) and nuts (6kcal/g) is the same on any trail.

Trail name

On the PCT, everyone has a "trail name." While some people choose their own, most are given by other hikers. Having a name gives you a real sense of belonging to fellow hikers. You're almost never called by your real name.

Trail Angel

These are people who provide free support along the trail. They leave cold water and soda at water sources, or open their homes to offer lodging. In the desert section, at Scissor Crossing, there was an angel who provided a space to pitch a tent and a shower for free. I think this is the very essence of the PCT culture.

Recipes and detailed instructions on how to create a food plan are compiled on the HIKER FOOD page.

HIKER FOOD — Meals and food planning for long trails →

PCT Glossary

Long-distance trail hiker communities have their own unique vocabulary. This list focuses on terms used on the PCT, but terms like Thru-Hike, Zero Day, Trail Magic, and Hiker Hunger are also understood on the AT (Appalachian Trail) and CDT (Continental Divide Trail).

To complete a 4,265km trek, physical care is just as important as choosing the right equipment. While you can replace your gear, blisters on your feet and knee pain can only be healed as you walk. Here are some of the problems and recovery methods I experienced on the PCT.

Pacing

The average daily distance covered on the PCT is about 30-40km. This is quite a fast pace, considering the average for PCT completers is 25-30km. However, I didn't start at this pace. For the first two weeks, I limited myself to 20km/day, and gradually increased the distance as my body got used to it. I believe that "not pushing yourself too hard in the first two weeks" is the shortest route to completing the PCT.

The principle of "take it easy for the first two weeks, then gradually increase the distance once your body is ready" applies to the PCT, AT, and CDT. It's said that the biggest reason for dropping out on any trail is "pushing too hard at the beginning." I started with less than 20km a day, which I think is a reasonable number to recommend for any long trail.

Foot care

Blisters are practically a rite of passage for PCT hikers. I got my first blister on the scorching hot asphalt section of the desert. Prevention is 90% of the battle.

• Choose socks that are quick-drying (wet socks can cause friction).
• Take off your shoes and dry your feet during every break.
• Apply petroleum jelly to reduce friction.
• If blisters form, drain the fluid with a safety pin and protect the area with tape.

Preventing blisters is important regardless of the trail. Quick-drying socks, frequently taking off your shoes to dry them, and applying petroleum jelly are all essential. These three things are the same whether you're hiking in the deserts of the PCT or the wetlands of the AT. While your choice of shoes may vary depending on the terrain, the principle of "keeping your feet dry" is universal.

The Separate Dry Socks were created to address such foot problems. They feature fabric between the toes, preventing sweating and chafing. They can be used as preventative socks or as inner socks. Using them as inner socks will extend their lifespan, so please give them a try.

Toilet rules

On American trails, the "Cat Hole" method is standard. Dig a hole 15-20 cm deep at least 60 meters from the trail, relieve yourself, and then fill it back in. Toilet paper should be taken home in a Ziploc bag (Leave No Trace). In some sections of the Sierra Nevada, WAG bags (portable toilets) are mandatory.

For toilet paper, I recommend using gummy candy packaging or trail food packaging because it doesn't leak odors.

Injuries and mental health

Knee pain, plantar fasciitis, shin splints—something is bound to happen when you walk long distances. I experienced mild altitude sickness symptoms (headache and loss of appetite) during the Sierra Nevada section. If you're crossing passes over 4,000m for several days in a row, your body might not be able to keep up. Walk slowly, drink plenty of water, and don't push yourself too hard. That's all there is to it.

Mentally, anxiety and pain are your enemies. After walking through the desert for two weeks straight, you get tired of the scenery not changing. When that happens, take a rest day in town. Talk to other hikers. I think the key to long-distance hiking is not being afraid of "days when you don't walk."

Mental challenges—loneliness, monotony, impatience to reach the goal—are common to long trails, regardless of distance or country. "Don't be afraid to take days off" and "Talk to other hikers" are effective coping strategies on any trail. You don't necessarily have to do a thru-hike, do you? I think you should do what you want to do.

Tool trouble

After walking 4,200km, your equipment is bound to break. Problems I experienced on the PCT included: the pole's locking mechanism getting stuck with sand (repaired by disassembling and cleaning), the pack's shoulder strap fraying (repaired with sewing supplies), and the tent zipper getting stuck (carefully fixed with a pen cap). A repair kit is one of those tools you might think you "never need," but the time to use it will definitely come.

The contents of a repair kit don't change much even if the trail changes. Sewing supplies, duct tape, spare cord locks, and glue. "What breaks easily" is proportional to the distance the gear is used, so I think you should bring one if you're hiking more than 2,000km.

Everything I've written so far is about the PCT, but looking back, there aren't that many things that apply only to the PCT. The permit application process and the American unit system are unique to the PCT, but the basics of walking, eating, sleeping, and repairing are the same on any long trail around the world. I'll summarize the "trail-agnostic mindset" that I learned on the 4,265km PCT.

Think about equipment in terms of "subtraction".

When creating an equipment list, it's more efficient to think about "what not to bring" rather than "what to bring." Ask yourself, "What would happen if I didn't have this?" for every item. If the answer is "I'd be in trouble," then bring it. If it's "inconvenient, but I wouldn't die," then leave it behind.

My PCT base weight of 4,836g was the result of repeating this subtraction process over five months. Initially, there were more things I wanted to bring. But after a month of hiking, I could see what I wasn't using. I would then send those things back home from town. This iterative process refined my gear.

The important thing is "don't try to create a perfect gear list from the start." You adjust as you go. I think this applies to the PCT, the AT, and even the mountains of Japan.

Logic of supply plans

Long-distance trail resupply plans are constructed using simple multiplication.

Number of days between towns × daily food weight = total food weight to carry

On the PCT, a typical amount was "3-6 days' worth x 500-600g/day = 1.5-3.6kg". This number varies from trail to trail, but the calculation logic is the same.

Another important concept is "calorie density." You choose ingredients based on how many kcal they contain per gram.

• Olive oil: 9kcal/g (highest calorie)
• Nuts: 5-6 kcal/g
• Chocolate: 5kcal/g
• Dry pasta: 3.5 kcal/g
• Rice: 3.5kcal/g

This number becomes more important the longer the refueling intervals on the trail (the North Island section of Te Araroa can last over 10 days). Choosing foods with a high calorie-to-weight ratio will allow you to pack smaller food bags and more room in your pack. Ultimately, food planning is a matter of arithmetic.

For specific ingredient selections and recipes, please refer to the HIKER FOOD page.

HIKER FOOD →

Criteria for deciding to withdraw

"When to stop" is one of the most difficult decisions to make on a long trail. I had three criteria that I set for myself on the PCT.

1. Injuries that prevent walking —If your knee or ankle pain is so severe that it worsens with every step, it's highly unlikely that resting in town will help. Think about an escape route while you can still move.

2. Weather —We encountered heatwaves and wildfires on the PCT. If there is a forecast for the weather and fires to improve, we wait. If not, we detour or retreat. Accepting that "we can't control the weather" is the first step.

3. Mental Health —If the feeling of "I don't want to walk" lasts for more than three days, take two zero days to reconsider. If you still don't feel like it, take a break from the trail and make a decision. The important thing is whether you can think, "Stopping is not a failure." I injured my leg and went to a 10-day music festival in the middle of the PCT.

This isn't just limited to the PCT; you'll inevitably encounter this situation on any trail of several hundred kilometers or more. Having a set of criteria beforehand will help you stay calm on the trail.

The "first two weeks" rule

On any long trail, the first two weeks are the riskiest. The reason is simple: your mind is racing ahead of your body. It's frustrating when your body just can't keep up despite your best efforts...

For example, if you were to create a rule:

• For the first two weeks, drive less than 20km/day.
• If you feel pain, immediately slow down.
• Start Zero Day early (take a day off in the first town).

This feeling of "restraining" should be the same whether you start hiking from Springer Mountain in the Atlantic Mountains or from Cape Reinga in Te Araroa. "Being able to walk" and "being able to keep walking" are two different things.

Long trails become a part of life.

After hiking for more than two weeks, hiking transforms from an "activity" into a "lifestyle." Waking up in the morning, packing up the tent, hiking, eating, and sleeping becomes a routine.

This "integration into daily life" is both the charm and the challenge of long-distance trails. When the initial excitement fades, there comes a time when walking starts to feel like "work." On the PCT, this happened to me around the third week.

Things I did to deal with it:

• I consciously look for one subject to photograph each day.
• In town, I fully embrace the "enjoyment of not walking" (eating, doing laundry, talking to people).
• Don't overthink things (just think about "today's campsite").

The longer you walk, the more your ability to enjoy everyday life is tested. I think this is true whether you're on the PCT or the Camino. Let's enjoy living each day to the fullest.

It's time for a review to be completed.

Many hikers, myself included, begin thinking about "where to hike next" after completing the PCT. For reference, here's a summary of the characteristics of long trails that are easy for Japanese hikers to handle.

Appalachian Trail (AT, East Coast of the United States) — Approximately 3,500 km. The elevation changes are more dramatic than the PCT, with continuous ascents and descents every day. There are plenty of shelters (mountain huts), so tents are not necessary in some sections. It is humid and insect-heavy.

CDT (Continental Divide Trail, USA) — Approximately 5,000 km. Of the three major trails, it has the most unclear route and requires strong navigation skills. It is often chosen by those who have completed the PCT.

Te Araroa (New Zealand) — Approximately 3,000 km. Since it's in the Southern Hemisphere, the seasons are reversed. Visas are easy to obtain, and it's an English-speaking environment. It has a hut (mountain lodge) culture, and the hiking style is different from the PCT.

Camino de Santiago (Spain) — Approximately 800km. Duration: Around one month. Accommodation is available, so tents are not necessary. It's a relatively easy trail for a "first long-distance trail."

Michinoku Shiokaze Trail (Japan) — Approximately 1,000 km. Walk along the Tohoku coast. It's accessible, has easy access, and is available in Japanese. Experience the feeling of a long-distance trail without leaving Japan.

No matter which trail you choose, the "walking techniques" you learned on the PCT are applicable. Equipment planning, pacing, food planning, mental management—skills you acquire can be applied even when the field changes.